• Home
  • Calendar
  • Training
    • Private Lessons
    • TangoConnection™ Group Classes
  • TangoIntensivo
    • TangoIntensivo™ Registration
    • TangoIntensivo™ FAQ
    • TangoIntensivo™ Waiver
  • Performances
  • Resources
    • Tango Advice
    • Tango History
    • Dance Deeper
    • Book Reviews
  • About Us
    • Deb & Brian
    • Our Teachers
    • Tango Colorado
  • Contact Us
Dance of the Heart

TangoIntensivo™ Orientation

BIENVENIDO!!!!

HOLA HOLA HOLA!!! and Welcome to our TangoIntensivo™ programs in Buenos Aires with Luciana Valle & Dance of the Heart! We are very excited to welcome you to what we predict will be a truly fantastic experience!!!

The Ins and Outs of TangoIntensivo™ – REQUIRED READING SECTION
Many joys and pleasures await you in Buenos Aires (BsAs)! To assure the most magical, memorable experience possible, please assist us in obtaining all the information we’re providing in advance of your training by reading all this exhaustive thorough necessary material! A preliminary resource if you haven’t already scoured it by now is to click on and read through our TangoIntensivo™ FAQ. 

Your main sources of accurate information will be delivered via our e-registration messages #1 through 6 (sometimes more!) and through the below REQUIRED READING SECTION that includes the below Orientation Info section. These platforms are our primary means of communicating all the VITAL information you’ll need to have a FABULOUS training experience. It is CRITICAL to be diligent in reading each of your e-registration messages and this REQUIRED READING SECTION before attending your program/s. If for any reason you suspect you are missing information, do not hesitate to call, skype, email, snail mail, text, wave arms vigorously or send that carrier pigeon – whatever produces a prompt response. Your successful participation depends on it!

Below the Orientation Info section, you will find what we hope will prove to be valuable resources and reminders to make your preparations and your trip the best ever!

Orientation Info Section
(Required Reading)

Program Location
Schedule Example
Rules, Regulations & Recommendations
Brief Legal Matters
Daily existence during the program
A Word About Our Fabulous Assistants
A Word About Tips For Luciana & the Assistants
A Word About Evenings & Non-Workshop Social Time

Reminders, Resources & Travel Tips

GETTING THERE
Ezeiza International Airport (EZE)
Upon Arrival/Upon Departure
GETTING AROUND
Transportation from/to EZE
Public Transportation
WHERE TO STAY
A little about Palermo
THE HOUSING LIST
WHAT TO PACK
Clothing for Airline Travel…the Street…the Workshop…the Milongas
Cell Phones & Lap Tops
Money (ATM’s…exchanging dollars for pesos…etc.)
Taxis & guidelines for on-the-street tipping etiquette
Security & Documents
THINGS TO DO
BsAs Milonga Resources
Other Amusements (Theater, Museums, Shopping, Tourism, etc.)
Food
__________________________

Orientation Info Section

 TangoIntensivo™ Program Location

We host our programs at a number of facilities in the Palermo/Villa Crespo districts of Buenos Aires typically within the main streets of Cordoba, Corrientes, Scalabrini Ortiz and Juan B. Justo. If close proximity is vitally important to you, please refer to the above parameters and your e-registration messages which will confirm the training facility location and our final confirmed training schedule.

back to top

Schedule Example

The schedule for your TangoIntensivo™ program/s will look similar to the below ‘mock’ schedule. You will receive confirmed schedules via e-registration messages approximately two weeks prior to the start of your program/s. That’s why we are very insistent about the necessity to please, without fail, read your e-registration messages promptly and carefully. The below example/mock schedule reflects what your tuition covers. Asterisks reflect activities NOT covered by your tuition but we warmly encourage you to attend/enjoy if you feel inspired.

Monday

10:45am – 11am: Orientation Meeting
11am – 1pm: Morning Session
1pm – 2pm: Lunch Break
2pm – 4pm: Afternoon Session

*8pm – 10pm: El Motivo Classes @ Villa Malcolm

*10pm: El Motivo Practica @ Villa Malcolm (featuring fab DJ’s, performances & other cool surprises)

Tuesday through Friday

11am – 1pm: Morning Session
1pm – 2pm: Lunch Break
2pm – 4pm: Afternoon Session


Rules, Regulations & Recommendations for Daily Sessions

– arrive 10 minutes prior to the start time of daily sessions

– filming of Luciana during sessions is prohibited

– no smoking allowed in the workshop space

– we recommend comfortable clothes (light casual layers) & dance sneakers

– while there are tons of cafes & shops on the street, some that can accommodate lunch service quickly, because we only have 1 hour, many of our staff & alumni bring snacks or sandwiches you are welcome to consume in the studio

back to top

Brief Legal Matters:

Our DoTH “Waiver of Liability” and “Consent for Use of Video Image” Forms

In order to participate in our program/s, you will be requested to sign a Waiver & Consent form at the orientation meeting. You can read the waiver content on the Waiver page.

back to top

To give you an understanding of daily existence during the program:

10:45 to 11am – Students & staff arrive
11am – Morning session commences
1pm – Lunch break
2pm – Afternoon session commences
4pm – We wrap for the day (typically includes quick announcements)

back to top

A Word About Our Fabulous Assistants!

We’re very proud of the caliber of TangoIntensivo™ Assistants (local BsAs dancers you’ll be training/dancing with) in our program/s. The core of this group has evolved into a powerful, experienced team dedicated to facilitating, nurturing and expanding your tango practice under Luciana’s guidance and direction.

Our Assistants are functioning as Luciana’s extensions, providing you with the ineffable experience of what it’s like to partner with Argentine dancers who train and dance at a high level. We’ve greatly enjoyed our experiences with them over the years and we know you’re in for a treat, getting to spend so much time dancing with them. They enjoy the opportunity to work with you, too. However, please be respectful of their privacy during breaks or if you encounter them outside class.

back to top

A Word About Tips For Luciana & the Assistants

In response to requests from appreciative students eager to express their gratitude through tips at the close of every TangoIntensivo™ program we’ve hosted (59 completed so far and still counting), we’ve established a discreet and VOLUNTARY protocol to facilitate tip distribution. On the final day of each session, you will have the opportunity to tip in an organized, discreet and courteous way. The question always arises about an appropriate amount. Bottom line: let your heart be your guide but also note BsAs waiters typically receive a 10{c178f97d4d2a73e35feb35eea3294bd75372c1dfd70bfadf1fc56885974cf26d} tip, just FYI.

back to top

A Word About Evenings & Non-Workshop Social Time

While we expect you will greatly enjoy the company of your fellow students and our outstanding staff dancers – only one of MANY delights to look forward to in taking our programs – it’s important to honestly assess your need for companionship and social time and especially REST outside our daily sessions. Take ACTIVE responsibility to cater GENEROUSLY to your down-time needs once we “turn you loose” daily at 4pm. There are ENDLESS diversions to enjoy in BsAs – one of the most fascinating, seductive cities on this planet. But don’t underestimate your body and brain’s requirements for R&R before Luciana gets her hands on you again in the morning!

END of REQUIRED READING SECTION  & “Orientation Info” Section


back to top

Reminders, Resources & Travel Tips

The below section and this entire private page is for exclusive use for our registered students ONLY. The information below is offered as an extra benefit or gift – our way of expressing our appreciation to you. Use and enjoy!

DISCLAIMER: Because we are not a professional travel agency and your tuition does not cover travel services or advice, we are not responsible for any benefits or difficulties you may encounter as a result of utilizing any of the below resources. Your tuition covers the cost of the TangoIntensivo™ program/s ONLY. Arranging for travel, meals, accommodations and extracurricular activities is your responsibility. Below is information we’re sharing as a courtesy to help make your trip as safe, pleasant, economical and comfortable as possible.

back to top

GETTING THERE

First and foremost, check your passport expiration date! If you don’t have one or yours has expired, give yourself a minimum of 3 months in advance of your flight date, to complete the application process. For USA citizens, the Argentine Reciprocity fee was revoked in March 2016 so only your passport and an immigration form (handed out before your flight lands) are needed to legally enter Argentina. Students from others countries, please check requirements before your travel day.

Travel insurance is always a smart idea. Below is a short list, but googling will produce many more options:

  • http://www.worldnomads.com/
  • http://www.insuremytrip.com/index.html?linkId=30002

Air Fares: We recommend flying in to BsAs Ezeiza International Airport (EZE). A useful EZE website with English translations: www.aa2000.com.ar

We have seen fares as low as $945 from Denver (yes, round trip!), but typically you can expect to pay $1,400 to $2,000. It’s possible to find a great deal by googling ‘cheap flights’ or consulting with clever travel agents or even inquiring directly with airlines. SUERTE (good luck)!

Environmentally oriented? To maintain your ‘Green’ or carbon-neutral status, log on to myclimate to discover options to off-set the carbon dioxide ‘contributions’ you’ll necessarily make due to your flights to and from BsAs. This site contains non-profit options for consumers to contribute to renewable energy and reforestation projects. Very cool and worthy of consideration!

Ezeiza International Airport: Navigating the EZE airport upon both arrival and departure can be confusing and full of surprises, especially for incoming travelers who’ve spent a restless night flying. Some survival tips and reminders follow.

Upon Arrival: Your flight crew will typically offer all passengers an immigration form (and very bad coffee) prior to landing. For optimum convenience, fill it out BEFORE deplaning and be sure to avoid the ‘Argentine resident’ line and instead, queue in the ‘visitor’ line to pass through immigration. Be prepared to present the immigration form with your passport and possibly other paperwork to your immigration officer. Your passport will get stamped and a finger-print and iris/eye identification photo will be administered. You will also be REQUIRED by your immigration officer to provide the exact street address where you will be staying during your visit.

Next, you’ll file into a labyrinthine duty-free shopping zone that seems to contain no exit where attractive young Argentines offer to baste you with expensive perfumes. Keep to your right for the baggage claim area where we recommend moving QUICKLY to score a complimentary luggage cart. Follow the crowd to the luggage belts and once you’ve retrieved your bags and loaded your cart, your next queue is the luggage security check-point. Expect to place all bags on a short conveyor belt for x-ray-ing. Officers will wave you to the other end of the machine so you can reload your cart and proceed through a hallway of taxi stalls. You’ll pass through security doors into the main lobby of the airport, a receiving area typically PACKED by a sea of friends/families/hired drivers awaiting your arrival. If you’ve reserved a car, look for an individual holding a sign with your name on it. If you haven’t reserved wheels, no problemo. Scroll below for transportation details from EZE to your BsAs accommodations.

Upon Departure:

We strongly recommend arranging for transportation to EZE the day BEFORE your return flight. Call a remise (private car rental service; multiple listings available in most tango publications) or ask your AirBnB host or hotel front desk to assist you. If you were happy with your driver when you first arrived, they often provide a discount on their business card to encourage you to book them for your return to EZE at the close of your stay. Whatever you decide, we recommend ordering your car to pick you up 3 or even 4 hours prior to flight departure. This allows for an hour commute to EZE (in heavy traffic, it could take even longer) and 2 hours at the terminal where you’ll need time to check in. After checking your luggage, proceed directly to your gate (do NOT loiter or be lured by any other activities such as eating, shopping, etc.). On your way to your departure gate, you could easily encounter another lengthy queue at Immigration so don’t assume you have tons of time. Last minute duty-free shopping and food is plentiful near all boarding areas if you have extra time and pesos. EZE has been under construction for decades but the new departure gate areas are now contemporary and bursting with cafes and shops. As is typical of most airports, things are overpriced, so preparing food and water as part of your packing to-do list is wise (and probably healthier).

While we ourselves have never encountered difficulties, we hear theft is on the rise so it’s important to be alert. Regarding EZE security, luggage and immigration check points, we’ve rarely experienced delays and find it’s a faster and less exhaustive process than in the USA.

Like most airports, there are multiple services and vendors at the EZE terminal including Banco Nacion ATM’s open 24 hours/daily. You’ll find one booth at Terminal A (international) and another at Terminal B (domestic).
___________________________

back to top

GETTING AROUND

Transportation to/from EZE:

Remise service (a private taxi or car) is the recommended transportation from EZE to your lodging or when returning to EZE for the flight home. A fellow dancer in BsAs is available to provide taxi service at reasonable rates at:

https://www.facebook.com/taxi4tango.ba

Another reliable but much pricier taxisto:

https://www.facebook.com/dante.proano.1

Upon arrival, a remise can be hired at an EZE counter close to the exit doors from baggage security. For example, Tienda Leon (one of several remise services at EZE) is perfectly reliable and competitively priced. Hang on to remise receipts – they generally offer a discount if you reserve a car from them for return airport service at the end of your trip.

If your destination in BsAs is a hotel, inquire when you book accommodations if they provide EZE airport shuttle service.

English-based websites providing visitor tips and resources for Buenos Aires travelers:

http://therealargentina.com/en/the-best-parks-and-open-spaces-in-buenos-aires/

www.timeout.com

http://baexpats.org/

Public Transportation:

The subway (el subte) is easy to use. Buy a farecard (‘monedero’) at most station entrances or Kioscos (think New York or Washington, DC).

The buses (colectivos) are difficult to decode in the Guia (Guide), but are inexpensive and convenient. Supply yourself with tons of change (cambio) because bus drivers do NOT make change if all you have is a big bill. When you board a colectivo, because of the fare zone system, simply tell the driver your destination. He’ll punch a button that will display your fare on the farebox at which point you pay the box and wait for the machine to give you a ticket. Keep the ticket – in case transit enforcement officers board to check passenger receipts. Fares range from A$.70 to A$2 pesos (mas o menos) depending on distance.
___________________________

back to top

WHERE TO STAY

Housing options in BsAs are plentiful and varied like all major cities. Tango tourist houses are great options for those of you interested in “clustering” with fellow students. We also note many satisfied travelers who use AirBnB Buenos Aires: https://www.airbnb.com/

In general, the closer most convenient barrios within easy walking distance to your sessions include Villa Crespo, Palermo Soho, Palermo Viejo and Palermo Hollywood.

A little about Palermo

Palermo is a great place for tango dancers for all the right reasons. For example, milonga and/or practica locations such as El Motivo, Salon Canning, La Viruta, Cafe Fulgor, etc. etc. are ALL within walking distance of each other. These Palermo-based tango hot spots host a steady stream of nightly music and dance performances, practicas, milongas and classes. Accessing milongas in other areas of the city – El Beso, Porteño y Bailarin, El Arranque, Lo de Celia, etc., is trivial – the #12 bus can deliver you in 20 minutes (mas o menos) for a handful of cambio. When we cab-it from Palermo, we typically arrive in under 15 minutes to most tango destinations anywhere in the city – IF traffic is light. Transportation is plentiful – buses, the subte and radio-taxis abound.

Need a break from the busy streets? Take a restorative stroll through the botanic gardens, the Japanese Gardens, the Parke Ecologico and finish on the lovely tree-lined streets this barrio is known for. Palermo Viejo and Soho also contain a vast selection of top-notch and delightfully inspired shops from chic cafes to unique restaurants.

A useful online city map: http://www.cybermapa.com/
___________________________

back to top

THE HOUSING LIST

The following is a brief list of potential short-term apartment rental sources. The first 3 listings are known to us personally where we’ve had great experiences and reliable, marvelous service, so if you utilize any of them, be sure to mention you were referred by Deb & Brian of Dance of the Heart. In general, look for places in Palermo, Viejo Palermo or Palermo Soho for reasonably close distances and nice neighborhood experiences.

Beautiful 2-bedroom, 2 bath apartment in Palermo Chico on tree-lined street. Near trendy shops and restaurants, all conveniences plus Jardin Japonese and Botanico in walking distance, access to all transportation options. Owner Dierdre Black (from Aspen, Colorado) lives in BsAs where she runs her “Tango Gypsy” concierge service offering accommodations, professional massage (highly recommended!) and more. To book Dee, use us as a referral and write to: dblioness2000@yahoo.com  or WhatsApp cell: (54911) 4026 0016.

Several vacation apartments in Palermo are available for short term rent. Jesse and Paula will work diligently to make you totally comfortable. Contact info: russopaula@hotmail.com or jessemtl@hotmail.com or 415-992-5201. Please likewise mention you were referred by Deb & Brian/Dance of the Heart.

A fellow Intensivista, Judith, owns an Airbnb apartment a few blocks from one of our most frequently utilized studios. If you book, let her know we referred you.  judith.stacey@nyu.edu

Other accommodation possibilities:

LunaLlena Tango Guest House: lunallena2135@hotmail.com

Olleros 3000 B&B: info@olleros3000.com.ar

Conventillo de Lujo: conventillodelujo@fibertel.com.ar

Domus BA 3631 Cabrera, Palermo Viejo, (54) 11 4865 9907

https://www.airbnb.com/

http://www.alojargentina.com/

http://www.artsuites.com.ar/

http://buenosaires.craigslist.org/

___________________________

back to top

WHAT TO PACK

We know some of you are seasoned BsAs visitors while others are traveling to this glamorous, busy tango mecca for the very first time. Whether this is your first or tenth BsAs experience, we hope the following suggestions prove useful.

In general, pack LESS than you think you’ll need – for bringing home your marvelous Argentine treasures! We also suggest WEIGHING YOUR BAG/S. While you are permitted to check 2 bags per person on international flights, most airlines impose a 50-pound weight limit per bag.

Clothing for Airline Travel

We recommend going for casual comfort to survive the brutal ten or more hours you’ll be plane-constrained. In anticipation of your arrival in EZE, we urge you to avoid ‘blingy’ accessorizing (no expensive camera or designer bags dangling from necks and shoulders; don’t go for clothing and/or luggage with bold colors or gaudy patterns; no gold chains, expensive watches or fine jewelry; avoid Bermuda shorts paired with white socks and black shoes; etc.). These ‘scream’ visitor or foreigner and could invite the ‘wrong’ kind of attention.

Clothing for the Streets of Buenos Aires

We’ve never been the victims of petty street crime in all our trips down because (we believe!?) we dress casually – including casual totes/backpacks carried in FRONT (all zippers, snaps and latches CLOSED). Bring shoes that are FLAT FLAT FLAT because if you’re at all like us, while using/hailing cabs is typically wonderfully accessible at all hours of the day and night, you’ll do a LOT of walking. The sidewalks are extremely uneven at the most unexpected places – suddenly there’s a hole or a missing piece of sidewalk or a deep crevasse or excrement or WORSE. These are NOT the cleanest or smoothest sidewalks in the world, so go for comfort and function over chic (save chic for the milongas).

For those of you who HATE laundry-duty, you’re going to FALL IN LOVE with your local ‘lavanderia’. For ridiculously little, you can drop off your dirties at the nearest one and PRESTO – all will be meticulously cleaned and folded for pick up (same day service is typical) – some even iron your underwear (we’re not kidding). Most lavanderias will request payment at drop-off so hang on to your receipt for trouble-free pick-up.

BsAs has the same latitude as Savannah, Georgia which means they share a similar climate. For students registered for the TangoIntensivo™ programs scheduled in the fall (Oct/Nov), keep in mind that seasonally BsAs is going from spring into early summer. This means it can get positively HOT while still dipping down into cool spring temps within the same afternoon or evening. We’ve found that preparing for humid weather by bringing light layers works beautifully and covers all possibilities even when it can be rainy or cool.

Coming down for the late spring (May/June) TangoIntensivo™ sessions? This season is late fall leading into early winter for Argentina. Fall to winter air is typically crisp and clean! It’s also low tourist season which is a pleasure because everything from shopping to interacting with the locals at milongas is more relaxed. Layering is again the answer. We pack raincoats or jackets, sweaters, sweatpants (perfect for ‘at home’ lounging) – don’t forget scarves, cozy slippers and thick socks. Because the days are growing colder, it’s also flu-season in BsAs so be sure to stock up on your favorite cold-preventatives. And wash your hands – a LOT!

Clothing for the Workshop

Go for comfort and flexibility, clean and casual. Stretchy, yoga-esque fabrics that BREATHE are ideal. For footwear, we recommend dance sneakers (favored by students and staff/males and females). Ladies, consider rotating between dance sneakers and a pair of low-esque practice heels.

Clothing for the Milongas

Our experience is that casual elegance is key. Men tend to wear button down shirts and dress trousers. Practicas and classes are informal – jeans and t-shirts are the norm. Some milongas may require more formal attire. Even in the heat of summer, some venues require gentlemen to wear a full suit.

For the ladies, go for casual or formal, elegant or sassy, whatever makes you feel SEXY! Portenas (BsAs women) tend to show a LOT of skin (form fitting/flattering high skirt-lines, plunging neck-lines, low-waist pants), so don’t be shy! While it’s typical to see chicas of all ages and body types in spectacular saucy dresses or skirts, pants are equally evident. However, all this impressively sexy splendor is rarely EVER on display on the streets. Therefore, bathrooms at milongas are typically teaming with Portenas changing clothes/shoes/applying make-up/perfume/final touches to make-up/hair/etc. The only ones shamelessly changing shoes in public are foreigners, so when in Rome, etc. Outdoor milongas and practicas are MUCH more casual – people dress WAY down (jeans and t-shirts totally acceptable) and boldly change shoes in the glaring public eye without concern (context is EVERYTHING).

Side note for bathrooms at high-end restaurants but also at certain milongas: you will most likely encounter bathroom attendants who control dispensing of toilet paper (warning: rarely will you find toilet paper INSIDE the stalls!) so be prepared with cambio (small change; or bring your own tissues). Some attendants provide an amazing array of toiletries in the bathrooms (hair spray, perfumes, lipsticks, etc.) but if you ‘borrow’ a dash of rouge or a spritz of scent, two things: 1. it’s distressingly easy to catch a cold/flu bug in BsAs and 2. expect to compensate the attendant or risk withering stares of outrage from EVERYONE who noticed – in BsAs, everyone sees EVERYTHING.

We recommend, ladies, a small bag or clutch that you can strap fashionably on your person. We stash street shoes and backpacks/totes under our milonga tables and trust. So far we’ve never suffered a theft, but it’s risky. Best guarantee is to attend milongas with a group of friends who take turns table-guarding.

___________________________

Cell Phones & Lap Tops

Many hotels provide computers for guest use and it’s not unusual to be offered the option of a functional local cell phone during your stay. There are also TONS of local companies renting phones. Just google “buenos aires cell phone rental” and stand back.

Another option to check e-mail or make phone calls is available in the form of locutorios. Locutorios are shops in BsAs containing public access phone booths and computers for hire. They are so plentiful there are often 3 or more on every block. Most locutorios are open 24/7.

If you simply can’t be parted from your cell or lap top, pick up a converter so you can easily plug in and recharge – but take care to stash electronics in a secure place. We’ve heard TOO many heart-breaking tales about computer and camera thefts, including in highly rated hotels and restaurants. So back up computer files like crazy and use extra caution. All Argentines use WhatsApp on their cell phones to communicate via text or calls. We recommend it to keep in touch with your travel buds and with us. It’s free and easy!

___________________________

Money

The basic tender for financial survival in BsAs is cash typically in pesos. More widely accepted every day: USA dollars. Cash is king in BsAs. This means cash and your ATM card will be keys to convenience and happiness. Travelers Checks are not typical and we don’t recommend them. Be aware and very alert at ATM’s as most Argentine ATM’s return your bank card at the close of transactions. We mention this because we’ve heard horror stories about jet-lagged tourists grabbing their cash and forgetting to collect their ATM cards. We used to recommend exchanging $25 or $50 USD for Argentine pesos BEFORE leaving the USA but exchanging dollars for pesos once you’re in BsAs is FAR more cost effective. Probably due to the black market, we note utilizing USD in bills of $50’s and $100’s are best. Smaller bills ($5’s through $20’s) are treated with some skepticism and considered lower in value. It’s strange but probably due to the unsteady economy, so keep this in mind when paying with USD’s.

We use the following websites to assist us with conversion rates:

  • XE Currency Converter
  • The Money Converter

Many restaurants and shops accept credit cards but you’ll need cash (keep a combo of pesos and dollars) to function comfortably during your stay. Even for large purchases, many vendors prefer cash and some even offer discount incentives. We also recommend maintaining a decent stash of ‘cambio’ (small bills and/or change). For a dramatic example, let’s say you use an A$100 peso note for a purchase of under A$40. Don’t panic when the cashier gives you an aggrieved glare and dashes out the door. They’re not robbing you! They’re running next door to beg for change. Everyone is always on the lookout for it so you’ll have an easier time if you make a conscious effort to keep a decent supply on you. A common pregunta (question) at most cash registers in the city: “tiene cambio” (“do you have change”)? The reason for this scarcity is a mystery so please tell us if you discover the answer!

If this is your first visit, you’ll experience a very STRONG reaction the first few times you hand vendors paper bills because most Argentines will turn larger bills up to the nearest light to check for the watermark. Though we’re familiar with this practice NOW, the impulse is to be offended or embarrassed. FORGEDDABOUT IT!!!! This is NOT personal and in fact, we urge you to get into the habit of checking for watermarks when you receive change, too.

___________________________

Taxis & guidelines for on-the-street tipping etiquette:

For waiters and food service, a 10{c178f97d4d2a73e35feb35eea3294bd75372c1dfd70bfadf1fc56885974cf26d} tip above the bill is expected. Obviously, if you feel an extraordinary effort has been made, tip according to your hearts’ dictates. When receiving maid service, it’s customary to leave a tip on or under a bedroom pillow (this gesture could encourage better service). For taxi drivers, rounding UP to the nearest even number is the norm. For example, if the fare is A$12.24 we’ll give the driver A$12.50 or A$13. Most drivers will politely attempt to dig out change, but if it’s a handful of coins, we insist they keep it. On the other hand, if you only have LARGE bills, best to stop somewhere to procure ‘cambio’ (change) BEFORE entering the cab rather than tempt the fates.

A common tourist taxi scam we heard about: at the end of an A$8 peso ride, the foreigner in question handed her driver a A$20 peso note and requested ‘diez pesos’ as change. The driver insisted (apparently very rudely) that her A$20-peso note was counterfeit and that he wanted another one. When she requested he return the ‘counterfeit’ A$20 peso note before she delivered a fresh one, he initially refused, then belligerently complied. Anxious now, she stepped out of the car while promptly handing him a ‘fresh’ A$20 peso note, again requesting firmly but politely “diez pesos, por favor” at which point he abruptly drove off. We were amazed by this story – our experience with most cab drivers has been just wonderful – still, these things do happen, so alertness is key!

One other taxi story to demonstrate a cultural norm: homeless people will sometimes open the taxi door when the driver picks up or drops passengers off. A student of ours experienced this very interaction. As she paid the driver and exited the cab, she felt nervous and intimidated so she mumbled a quick “gracias” to the person holding the cab door and walked briskly on. One day she observed a well-dressed child opening the door of a cab for an elegant Argentine lady (a Portena) who smiled warmly while placing several small coins in his hand. The exchange brought with it a realization that gestures like this are common on the streets of Buenos Aires, even (or especially?) between strangers. Perhaps this reflects the ineffable charm and sweetness we commonly experience there?

In general, it’s recommended to use only those cabs that have the insignia “Radio Taxi” on the doors and/or roof racks. Professional cab drivers typically hang their certification with photo from the headrest of their seat so passengers in the back can read it. While we do our best to avoid entering unmarked taxi’s, with one rare exception, drivers we’ve encountered are warm and talkative, taking us directly to requested locations, producing correct cambio, sin problemos!

As far as driving habits in BsAs, celebrate the fact that YOU’RE not behind the wheel! It can be positively terrifying how cabbies dart through the streets magically avoiding an accident at every corner. Over the years, we’ve come to view BsAs drivers as HIGHLY skilled athletes finessing their way through the streets. We can well imagine they’re probably great tango dancers, too (and many of them are)!

___________________________

Security & Documents

Make a few photocopies of the picture page of your passport – one to leave at home in the USA and another to carry with you, separate from where you plan to carry (or hide) your original. In case of emergencies or trouble, there is a special tourist police center where you can report stolen items or any harm to you or your belongings. Tourist Police, Av. Corrientes 436, Square San Nicolas, Phone 4346-5748 or 4328 2135 or 0800-999-5000 (free dial is 0800-999-2838)

___________________________

Health

This section will hopefully be unnecessary! But in case you or a companion requires medical attention while you’re in BsAs, below are a few links that provide BsAs-based medical resources and English-speaking MD’s for ex-pats:

http://movingtoargentina.typepad.com/my_weblog/2006/05/doctors_in_buen.html
http://www.easyexpat.com/en/buenos-aires/health/general-practitioner.htm

Here’s a site that offers online answers to medical questions:
http://www.justanswer.com/

Below is medical info from “Lonely Planet” that should be useful.

“For personalized medical care with English-speaking doctors and dentists who make house (or hotel) calls, contact Blue Care (4822-7244; 15-4165-0024), open 24 hours. Dental Argentina (4828-0821; Av Santa Fe 2227, 12th fl, suite G) provides modern facilities and good dental services with English-speaking professionals. Highly regarded hospitals include Hospital Italiano (4959-0800; Gascón 450) and Hospital Británico (4304-1081; Perdriel 74). The latter has a more central clinic for consultations only in Barrio Norte (4812-0040; MT de Alvear 1573); call for an appointment. Another popular medical facility is Swiss Medical (4824-7777; near Santa Fe & Scalabrini Ortiz) with various branches around town.”

___________________________

back to top

THINGS TO DO

BsAs Milonga Resources:

https://www.hoy-milonga.com/buenos-aires/es

http://www.BuenosAiresMilongas.com

Tango Publications containing listings of BsAs Milongas, Practicas and Classes: El Tangauta, La Milonga Argentina, B.A. Tango, DIOSTANGO
___________________________

Other Amusements
Interesting or famous Barrios (neighborhoods) to explore:

  • professional walking tours (www.bafreetour.com) are abundantly available
  • Recoleta (check out the weekend artesanal street fair and famous cemetery)
  • San Telmo (historical tango center with weekend artesanal street fair and the famous Plaza Dorrego)
  • Puerto Madero (stroll the renovated port area where you can sample multiple chic restaurants and shops)
  • Caminito (very touristy barrio, but worth the adventure)
  • Plaza Serrano (near Malcolm in Palermo, weekend artesanal street fair)

Museums & Theater

  • The Fine Arts Museum (Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes),
  • Museo Nacional de Arte Moderno
  • The Colon Opera House (buy a few tix in the nose-bleed section & take their fabulous back-stage tour)
  • so many more!!! just google!!!

Shopping Malls

  • Florida Walking Mall (zillions of shops, cafes, etc.)
  • Galerias Pacifico
  • Abasto (visit the tango shops on Anchorena, just outside this shopping mall)
  • so many more!!! just google!!!

___________________________

Tango Shoes

Please refer to any BsAs tango guide for current addresses, business hours, etc., or just google and stand back!
___________________________

Music

You will find many cd selections at the well-known BsAs Music Store “Zivals” on the corner of Corrientes & Callao.

At Luciana’s El Motivo practica, you can sometimes find cd’s for sale and at most of the above-listed street fairs. Other milongas also vend cd’s, shoes, t-shirts and other tango memorabilia.

___________________________

back to top

MORE TIDBITS

Food & H20

We typically live on bottled H2O which can be purchased at any SuperMercado or Kiosko on most every street corner in the city. It’s rare, but we’ve run out of bottled water and resorted (temporarily) to tap without consequences.

Prepare to eat simply and well, especially if you like beef and chicken. Vegetarians, you won’t starve. Many restaurants have bilingual English-Spanish menus. For those who eat beef, there are many interesting beef entrees – to play it safe, we recommend ordering the more expensive cuts. In general, we avoid fish dishes because Argentines seem to have a preference for what we’d label ‘overcooked’ fish.

It’s useful to note if this is your first trip to BsAs that the Portenos (citizens of the city) traditionally eat dinner LATE in the evening. Most restaurants are CLOSED in the late afternoon and rarely open for service before 8pm. Popular restaurants get packed around 10 or 11pm. Don’t panic about unavailability of food in the late afternoons or early evenings. Countless cafes serving lighter fare or tapas are heavily favored for a “pre-dinner/close of business hours” snack. This is the time of day when most Portenos indulge their passion for their signature hot tea, MATE which is typically served in gourds accessed by the elegant ‘bombilla,’ the Argentine version of our American straw.

For more about Argentine food, check out this amusing article: http://www.idlewords.com/2006/04/argentina_on_two_steaks_a_day.htm

Other Food Resources:

An ex-pat ‘foodie’ living in BsAs has a blog containing great restaurant recommendations:  http://www.saltshaker.net/

Another friend sent the following ‘Vegetarians in BsAs’ link: http://travel.nytimes.com/2010/03/07/travel/07choice1.html?pagewanted=1

Yet another cool site for organic haunts: http://buenosbio.com/

___________________________

We may put together other lists, including: vegan and/or organic shops, more restaurants, body workers, yoga classes, parks and other restorative destinations or activities, tango shows and dinner theaters. Meanwhile, if you have ideas, suggestions, contributions, concerns – please let us know!

As always, there’s more to come!

Stay in Touch!

  • 303-938-0716
  • Contact Us
    • Facebook
    • Youtube
subscribe to
our mailing list

Articles

  • Deb’s Tango Blog
  • Brian’s Tango Blog
  • Tango Advice
  • Tango History
  • Dance Deeper
  • Book Reviews
© 2013 Dance of the Heart LLC - Web Design by Dawn Shuck